Rigging:
Here is a basic video on rigging both of the 4″ baits. There are some limitations due to the dimensions of the bait but it can be rigged consistently and with high hookup ratio. One thing I neglected to mention in the video was that with the straight shank hook you need to put a drop of superglue just behind the eye of the hook where the shank meets the bait to keep it in there for multiple fish.
Techniques:
Burn:
The 4″ baits are quite a bit different than standard paddle tail swimbaits. The tail only kicks at a high rate of retrieval so for a straight retrieve (in most cases) the lure needs to be “burned” or retrieved very quickly. However this triggers explosive reaction strikes and provokes fish that would normally just follow the bait to make a strike. In this example video, I am using a 7:1 gear ratio reel and the bait is “waking” on the surface:
Rip, Stop – In weeds:
It is also effective when ripping the bait through/from weeds and other structure because the bait has a sudden burst of kicking then comes to a natural coast with no tail kicking like a real fish does. In this video I am sinking the bait on the deep side of a milfoil bed and slowing pulling it from pocket to pocket. You can see the rod tip as the bait gets hung on a strand and then suddenly rips free:
On the fall:
It is also highly effective on the fall. The tail will not usually kick on the fall, instead the bait falls very slowly and naturally horizontal or nose down depending on how it is rigged. It is important to let the line flow with zero resistance from the rod guides or spool, often this is attained by peeling line off the reel and laying it on the water. Watching the line pay out on the surface is how strikes are detected, not necessarily by feel:
Twitch/Pause:
Another effective method, especially in salt water, is a “twitch, twitch, pause” type retrieve. Identical to a “walk the dog” retrieve that you would use with a fluke or topwater bait.
ratchet swimbaits 